Fitting Guides

Most flooring problems are not caused by the floor. They are caused by the subfloor underneath it, or by not letting the boards settle before they went down. Get those two right and the rest is manageable.

Before you start

Let the floor acclimatise

Wood and laminate move with the moisture in the air. Bring the packs into the room where they will be laid and leave them flat and unopened for the period your manufacturer specifies. Not the garage, not the hallway, the actual room. Skipping this is the most common cause of gapping and cupping later.

Check the subfloor

The subfloor needs to be clean, dry, level and sound. Sweep it thoroughly, lift anything proud, and fill any dips. A floor laid over an uneven base will flex, and flexing joints eventually fail.

Concrete subfloors must be fully dry before a floor goes down and usually need a damp proof membrane. If in doubt, test the moisture content rather than guessing.

Plan your layout

Decide which direction the boards will run before you open a pack. As a rule, running them along the length of the room, or towards the main light source, looks best. Measure so you do not end up with a very narrow strip at the far wall, and adjust the first row width if needed.

Open several packs at once and mix the boards as you lay. Natural wood varies, and taking every board from one pack in order can leave a patch of noticeably darker or lighter floor.

Laying the floor

Leave an expansion gap

Every floating floor needs a gap around the entire perimeter so it can move. Use the gap size given in your fitting instructions, and leave it at every fixed object, including pipes, door frames and kitchen units. Beading or scotia covers the gap afterwards.

Do not fill the gap with adhesive or trap the floor under a fixed item. A floor that cannot move will lift.

Click, tongue and groove, or glue down

Click systems lock together without adhesive and are the most straightforward to fit. Tongue and groove boards are usually bonded or secret nailed. Herringbone and chevron are normally bonded to the subfloor rather than floated, because of the way the pattern distributes movement.

The joining method is listed in the specification on every product page, and your fitting instructions will confirm which installation method is approved.

Underlay

Most floating floors need underlay. It evens out small imperfections, improves comfort underfoot and reduces sound. Some products have underlay already attached, in which case you do not add more. Check the product page before you buy.

Underfloor heating

Where a floor is marked as suitable for underfloor heating, the system must be commissioned properly and the surface temperature kept within the limit stated by the manufacturer. Bring the heating back on gradually after fitting rather than straight to full.

Finishing off

Trim	What it does
Scotia beading	Covers the expansion gap at the skirting. Fix to the skirting, never the floor
T-profile	Joins two floors of the same height, usually in a doorway
Ramp profile	Handles a transition to a lower surface such as tile or carpet
End profile	Finishes an exposed floor edge
Stair nosing	Finishes and protects the leading edge of a step
Pipe covers	Conceal the cut-out around a radiator pipe

Store any spare boards flat and dry. A replacement from the same batch is worth having if a board is ever damaged.

Looking after your floor

Sweep or vacuum regularly, since grit is what wears a finish down. Wipe spills promptly rather than letting them sit. Use a cleaner intended for your floor's finish, and avoid steam mops and standing water on wood and laminate. Felt pads under furniture legs and a doormat at every external door will do more for the life of a floor than anything else.

Fitting flooring: frequently asked questions

Can I fit flooring myself?

Click systems are designed for competent DIY fitting. Tongue and groove, and patterned floors such as herringbone and chevron, are usually bonded down and are better suited to an experienced fitter. The joining method is listed on every product page.

Why does flooring need to acclimatise?

Wood and laminate expand and contract with the moisture in the air. Letting the packs settle in the room where they will be laid means the boards are already at the right moisture content when they go down, which prevents gapping and cupping later. Your fitting instructions give the period required.

Why do I need an expansion gap?

A floating floor moves slightly with changes in temperature and humidity. The gap gives it somewhere to go. Without one the floor has nowhere to expand into and will lift or buckle.

Do I need underlay?

Most floating floors do, unless underlay is already attached to the boards. Check the product page before ordering.

Can I lay flooring over underfloor heating?

Only where the product is marked as suitable. Underfloor heating suitability is listed in the specification on every product page. Follow the manufacturer's temperature limit and bring the heat back up gradually after fitting.

Can I lay a new floor over an existing one?

It depends on the existing floor and the product. The subfloor must be clean, dry, level and sound either way. Check your fitting instructions, and speak to a fitter if you are unsure.

What happens if I fit it incorrectly?

Fitting outside the manufacturer's instructions can affect your warranty. If you are unsure about subfloor preparation, damp, or underfloor heating, it is worth speaking to a fitter before you start.